Korea

TRAVEL TIPS FOR KOREA

South Korea is a country swathed in green, prodding its stony fingers skyward, and the Koreans are a people obsessed with nature, and with mountains in particular. Wherever you travel, you'll see Koreans out in the open air, clad in the latest adventure fashions, pushing ever onward and upward.

With China looming to its west and Japan nudging it from the east, it's no wonder the country has played unwilling host to centuries of war games. But no matter how many times its neighbours try to swallow it, South Korea manages to survive intact.

Visa The visa is to be obtained prior to arrival in the country

How to get there:

There are flights from Mumbai and Delhi on Korean Air, Cathay Pacific, Air India, Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines.

Climate:

Korea has four distinct seasons, with a wet monsoon/summer in the middle of the year and a very cold winter from November to March. Time your visit to South Korea for autumn (September to November). It's sunny, the skies are blue, and Korea's spectacular autumn foliage is a real draw. Winter is cold but dry, and a good time to visit if you like skiing, snow-draped temples, a dearth of tourists and below freezing weather. Spring (April to May) can be beautiful, but its also the most popular time with many tourists and you'll have trouble getting mid to top-end accommodation. Summer is hot, muggy, crowded, wet, typhoon-prone and expensive.

Health:

Avoid tap water unless it has been boiled, filtered, or chemically disinfected (e.g. with iodine tablets); only eat fresh fruit and vegetables that’s been cooked or peeled; be wary of dairy products that might contain un-pasteurised milk, and be highly selective when eating food from street vendors. If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids, preferably an oral re-hydration solution containing lots of salt and sugar.

Electricity:

The current is either 110 or 220 volts AC, 60 Hz. You'll find plugs with two flat pins (110 volts) or with two round pins (220 volts). Visitors from abroad who wish to operate personal small electronic items, should bring a plug adapter and a transformer

Languages Spoken:

Korean is the official language.

Getting around:

Transport in Korea is of a high standard. Trains are reliable, roads are in good condition and buses ply every imaginable route in and between towns and cities.

Cycling is an extremely popular way of getting around but be warned, traffic moves fast and not always with the greatest concern for cyclists so take care if you choose to cycle in urban centres. Outside the cities it's a pleasant way to get around but a reasonable amount of fitness is required, the terrain can very variable.

By Train  

The Korean National Railroad runs the entire network and contrary to the norm in many countries of East and Southeast Asia, trains are reliable, clean and run to strict schedules.

The intercity network connects all major cities and is comprised of the Superexpress and the Mugunghwa Express. The former is the more expensive but is the fastest network and offers higher levels of comfort than the Mugungwha Express network. Superexpress trains ply most major routes from Seoul, including to Busan and Incheon.

Tongil trains are slower and cheaper and tend to be used for more local journeys. There are lower classes of trains below this as well, although these really take a long time and aren't suitable for journeys of any real length.

Train travel is cheaper at weekends but costs are low by international standards even for the Saemaeul Superexpress.

Tickets can be bought from stations, and you can reserve seating (compulsory on some services). You are advised to book your seat in advance on any intercity journey especially if travelling during weekends or holidays. Mugungwha Express services have standing room but this can be uncomfortable over long distances.

A rail pass is available for foreign visitors. Called the KR Pass, it covers travel on the entire rail network as well as discounts on booking sleeping compartments should you require them on intercity journeys.

By Bus:  

The bus network is a cheaper alternative to the train but can be unsuitable for very long journeys. Express buses are the fastest and run non-stop (apart from rest periods) between major city destinations. Intercity buses may make more intermittent stops between termini.

Express bus tickets are offered in first and standard class. Buses are usually air-conditioned and can offer entertainment and refreshments. Rest breaks are frequent to allow passengers to stretch their legs.

However you should note that intercity buses are not tourist buses and timetables and info will not be issued in foreign languages. Dedicated tourist buses are available on popular routes to tourist destinations. From Seoul buses leave for major cities including Busan, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju, Incheon, Jeonju, Busan and Ulsan.

By Air: 

Korean Air provides internal flights, although the cost rarely makes it worthwhile compared to the train network. Flights are useful when trying to reach the island Cheju. Alternatively the ferry journey from Busan can take several hours and only leaves once a day.

By Boat:   

Ferries are a way of life in Korea. Ferry services prove to be indispensable when accessing thousands of islands off the southern mainland coast. A ferry leaves once a day from Busan to the island of Cheju Do.

Another service plies the South coast route from Mokpo to Busan while the Yosu hydrofoil departs five times a day from the port for the nearby island via Ch'ungmu.

International Airport:

The modern, state-of-the-art Incheon International Airport, on an island just off the coast west of Seoul, functions as the main international gateway to Korea.

Seoul's smaller Kimpo Airport is located about 15km west of Seoul city centre. It mainly deals with domestic flights from elsewhere within Korea, but does have one scheduled international connection to Japan.

Getting Around in the city from Kimpo Airport:

Ferry: The least convenient form of transport, there are services to the ports of Yul-do and Wolmi-do on the mainland costing KRW1000, but you will still need to take a bus into central Seoul.
Buses: serve Kimpo en route to Incheon. Again, there are numerous operators offering services to various destinations. Prices start at around KRW700 for an "ordinary" bus. The journey should take around 45 minutes.
Subway: Kimpo is connected to the city by Seoul's subway (line 5). Trains leave every 10 minutes or so. It costs KRW800 for a ticket to the city centre (KRW900 if you pay in cash), and you should buy your tickets from the vending machines before entering the platform. Expect it to take around 20 minutes to reach the city.
Taxis: from Kimpo take around 45 minutes to reach the city centre. There is a comprehensive public transport system in Seoul but the most efficient way of getting around is the underground subway rail system.

Getting Around in the city:

Subway:

The clean, efficient subway runs to most major destinations within Seoul and is easy to use. The lines are numbered, making it simple to find the right one, and maps and signs are clearly marked in English as well as in Korean script.

The network is divided into two "service areas," or "zones" which determine the price of your journey. Tickets can be bought at vending machines in stations. Multi-lingual machines can be found in main stations.

Buses:
Buses are more difficult to navigate if you can't read hangul (the Korean alphabet) or Chinese characters, as destination signs on the front of buses are not written in English. If you do need to catch a bus, you'll find that generally people are willing to help you find your way around; students are often especially glad to get a chance to practise their English so don't be afraid to ask.

There is a flat fare of KRW700 for adults for all trips within the city. Fares can be paid on the bus or in advance by buying a ticket at one of the booths located near stops.

Taxis: 

Taxis are plentiful on the streets of Seoul. The cheapest option is to hail a cab in the street or pick one up at a taxi rank, though your hotel will be able to call one for you if you want to be collected at the door.

Currency:

Currency: Korean Won (KRW)
Notes: KRW1000, 5000 and 10000
Coins: KRW10, 50, 100 and 500
Credit cards: Korea is largely a cash-based society and you should carry more cash than you would if you were in a Western society. If Korean Won are not available you are advised to carry US dollars.

Credit cards, including Visa, American Express and MasterCard are accepted in large department stores and major hotels but not in smaller hotels, or many shops and restaurants.

Traveller's cheques can be exchanged at Korean banks or large hotels. They will not generally be accepted in restaurants, shops or small hotels. You are advised to take traveller's cheques in US dollars. Banks will also change foreign currency but you are advised to carry US dollars if Korean won are not available.

You can use your credit or debit card to withdraw cash from ATMs but you may experience difficulty using certain cards and locating networked cash machines. You should check with your card issuer before travelling as to whether it will be possible to use your card in South Korea and what charges apply should you do so.

Be aware that all instructions are provided in Korean. ATMs are available at banks, the airport, major hotels, department stores, subway stations and tourist attractions.

Tipping:

Tipping is not customary in Korea. A 10% service charge is added onto the bill at all hotels. It is not necessary to tip taxi drivers unless they provide a special service such as carrying your bags. VAT, at a standard rate of 10% is levied on most goods and services and is included in the price.

CITIES:

SEOUL

Seoul is the throbbing financial and industrial centre of South Korea. This metropolis is one of Asia's most important cities, and most tourists will arrive here. Seoul warrants exploration for its twenty-first century architecture that sits admirably with temples hundreds of years old.

Outside of Seoul, the country has very strong scenic qualities, replete with architectural and historical treasures. The most notable being the Tripitaka Koreana, a collection of 13th century printing blocks inscribed with Buddhist texts.

Just off the coast, particularly the south, are literally hundreds of islands, ranging in size from rocky outcrops, home to puffins, to semi-tropical sandy paradises to the large volcanic island of Jeju-do with its unique culture and dialect. The South coast itself contains some wonderful stretches of white sands, and enjoys a sub-tropical climate that makes for a fantastic beach holiday

There is a massively rich and satisfying variety of things to see and do here, for both residents and visitors alike. Must-sees include the magnificent Chongmyo Shrine and the impressive Royal Tombs. You should also make time to experience the cultural splendour of traditional Samulnori drama, set to percussion, or its modern incarnation the famous Nanta (Cookin') Theatre, which replaces traditional instruments with kitchen items in a fabulous and innovative display of music and dance.

A city of contrasts, Seoul is for many the archetypal Asian metropolis - ancient tradition and history juxtaposed with modern technology and architecture.

At first sight, Seoul looks like any modern city: noisy, crowded and vibrant, the streets constantly full of traffic and people rushing in and out of high-rise tower blocks and swanky department stores, in a hectic flurry of swish designer suits careering through revolving doors.

The city is the financial and in many ways, cultural centre of South Korea and as such, stands proud at the helm of this nation that has developed so quickly and successfully over the last few years. As if to celebrate this fact, Seoulites tend to work and play hard: nestled between the office blocks are numerous bars and restaurants, shops and markets. Equally popular are the entertainment complexes housing cinemas and theme parks on an enormous scale.

It only takes a brief foray behind the scenes, however, to discover the other Seoul: this is the Seoul of ancient royal palaces and temples, of peaceful gardens and lakeside pavilions, hidden away behind the high-rises and modern hotels. To catch a glimpse of the secret garden of Changdeokgung Palace or the Hyangwonjeong Pavilion at Gyeongbokgung Palace is to be transported back to another age and seemingly another culture. Indeed, the palaces of Seoul are one of this modern city's top attractions: built at various periods in the long-lived Joseon Dynasty (1392 to 1910), they dominate much of the city centre with their expansive parkland. Interspersed with these are the shrines and temples of the city, still used for traditional festivals as they have been for centuries.

So whatever your reason for coming to Seoul, whether to follow the post-World Cup trail, or to lose yourself in its history, you will not go away disappointed. A warm welcome awaits in this urban phenomenon.

Gyeongbokgung Palace: 

Gyeongbokgung is arguably the most beautiful palace in Seoul, with its series of halls, pavilions and stone pagodas set within expansive parkland.

Built originally at the end of the 14th century in the Joseon Dynasty, the palace was destroyed by the Japanese in 1592 and not rebuilt until the 1860s. A further programme of rebuilding was undertaken in the late 20th century. The impressive Geunjeongjeon with its ornate ceilings is the main hall where the king presided over the affairs of state, behind which is the large Gyeohoeru pavilion built over a man-made pond. A short walk away is the smaller hexagonal Hyangwonjeong pavilion secluded by maple and pine trees on a tiny island in the middle of Hyangwongji pond.

Add: 1, Sejongno, Jongno-gu. Open: Tue-Fri 09h00-18h00; Sat & Sun 09h00-19h00. 

National Museum of Korea:  

The excellent National Museum houses an extensive collection of Korean artefacts and artwork, providing a fascinating insight into the cultural and religious history of the country.

Among the exhibits are Buddhist statues, 12th-century green Celadon pottery and other ceramics, ancient manuscripts and traditional Korean paintings. There is even a gallery of Korean tiles and bricks from various stages of history (which is more interesting than it sounds) donated to the museum by a Japanese man, Iuchi Asao, who devoted his life to accumulating this unique collection.

Add: 168-6 Yongsan-dong 6 ga, Yongsan-gu. Open: Tue, Thur & Fri 09h00-18h00; Wed & Sat; 09h00-21h00; Sun 09h00-19h00. 

Changdeokgung Palace: 

Changdeokgung is famed for its enticingly named "secret garden" or biwon, a lovely area of woods, flowers, ponds and pavilions laid out in traditional Korean style and originally used as a private garden for royalty.

A World Heritage site dating from the early-15th century, the palace is remarkably well preserved. Visitors have to take a guided tour of the palace and its grounds, which, although not covering every nook and cranny of the complex, provides a good general idea of the best areas as well as some interesting facts about the palace's history.

Add: 1, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu. Open: Tue-Sun 09h15-17h15 (summer); 09h15-16h00 (winter). English language tours at 11h30, 13h30, 15h30. 

Jongmyo Shrine:

Built to honour the Kings of the Joseon (Yi) Dynasty, the attractive Jongmyo (Royal Ancestors' Shrine) complex contains a number of traditional shrines and the tablets of 27 Kings and Queens in its forested grounds.

The shrine is still a major place of worship and is the site of an annual memorial ceremony in early May, when the main shrine is opened up to the public and descendants of the royal family visit in traditional costume. This is a particularly good time to visit, but in any season, the complex has some beautiful examples of Confucian shrines, well worth seeing.

Add: 1-2, Hunjeong-dong, Jongno-gu. Open: daily 09h00-18h00 (Mar-Oct); 09h00-17h00 (Nov-Feb). Admission: KRW1000, adults; KRW500, children. (closed Tuesdays). Tel: +82 (0)2-765-0195.

Mount Namsan Park:

A good place to see some greenery amid the bustle of the city, the large Namsan mountain and parkland is a popular place for walking and jogging in the centre of Seoul.

The main attraction here for visitors is Seoul Tower at the top of the mountain, which can be reached on foot or by cable car. With its prime position, this is the best observation point for seeing the whole city and has a revolving restaurant if you want to enjoy a meal while admiring the view.

The park also contains a small zoo, botanical gardens and pavilion. If you don't mind being labelled a tourist, it's excellent fun to take the cable car (which can be picked up from Myeong-dong subway station) for a tour of the park with stops at all the main places of interest.

Jung-gu/Yongsan-gu. Admission to Seoul Tower Observatory: KRW7000, adults; KRW5000, children. Cable car operating hours: 10h00-22h30. 

Namsangol Village:

This "village" consists of five traditional Korean houses, all in different styles. The predominantly 19th-century buildings have been moved from various parts of the country to this spot and provide a fascinating insight into traditional domestic architecture. They range from mansions such as the Park Yeong-hyo Mansion, originally home to the husband of Princess Yeonghye, to the Residence of Yi Seung-up, a carpenter to the Royal Family.

The site also has a pretty traditional garden as well as a permanent craft exhibition and regular performances of traditional music and dance.

84-1, Pil-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu. Open: daily 09h00-18h00 (Mar); 09h00-19h00 (Apr-Oct); 09h00-17h00 (Nov-Feb). Closed Tuesdays.

Jogyesa Temple  

As the headquarters of the Jogye order of Buddhism, which has more adherents than any other sect in Korea, Jogyesa is a major place of pilgrimage for Korean Buddhists.

For foreign visitors, the temple provides an interesting insight into Buddhism as well as having some attractive statues and paintings that are worth seeing even for the most devout atheist. The temple itself was built in 1910 in traditional style and is surrounded by trees and a pagoda. If you are in Seoul during May, it is worth checking to see if your stay coincides with the Lotus Lantern Festival, when the temple is illuminated with lanterns and colourful religious ceremonies take place.

Add: 45, Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu. Open: daily 04h00-21h00. 

Deoksugung Palace:  

Inside its stunning red gated entrance, Deoksugung contains the National Museum of Contemporary Art and the Royal Museum, housed in the pillared colonial-style Seokjojeon Hall, which looks somewhat out of place in its surroundings.

The two museums are both worth visiting; the Royal Museum displays clothes and jewellery belonging to the Joseon Kings and Queens while the Museum of Contemporary Art specialises in modern Korean paintings, sculptures and artworks. The palace also has some fine traditional halls and pavilions. If you're here between April and November, try to time your visit to coincide with the Guard Changing Ceremony which takes place every Saturday and Sunday at Taehan-mun Gate from 14h00-15h30 (15h00-16h30 July and August).

5-1, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu. Open: Tue-Sub 09h00-21h00 (Mar-Oct); 09h00-16h30 (Nov-Feb). 

War Memorial: 

Though built partly to commemorate Koreans killed in battle, the War Memorial is in fact a museum devoted to the history of conflict in Korea. The exhibitions lead you from prehistoric battles and the Three Kingdoms Period when Korea was subjected to incursions by the Chinese and Japanese through the Mongolian invasions during the Goryeo Period to the 20th-century Japanese occupation and Korean Wars. This is obviously a must-see for war aficionados, but even those not particularly interested in war are likely to find this informative look at Korea's history very revealing.

Add: 8, 1-ka, Yongsan-dong, Yongsan-ku. Open: Tue-Sun 09h30-18h00 (summer); 09h30-17h00 (winter).

Excursions:

Seroaksan National Park:   

An ideal combination of mountains and beaches are found all over Northeast Korea. Historical sites and beautiful scenery can be found everywhere, as well as ski resorts and other recreational facilities.

In the midst of all this is Seroaksan, Korea's most popular national park. Within its boundaries the park is a pristine region of soaring granite peaks, luxuriant green valleys and dense forest. The park is divided into South Seroak, Inner Seorak and Outer Seorak.

In between rises Dae-Cheongbong, the region's highest peak, with its summit reaching 1708m above sea level. Walking trails criss-cross the entire park, and are of varying difficulty. The spectacular 45m-high Biryong Waterfall is one of the most popular sights. The name means "Flying Dragon" and it is just one example of the many mythical tales that accompany the most spectacular features of Seorak. A local guide or book will be able to tell you the many fascinating stories connected to the park.

Located west of Sokcho, 30 minutes by bus from the Intercity Bus Terminal. The park does have an admission charge although if you travel as part of a group tour this should be included in the cost.

Suwon:

Just 50km south of the capital, the city of Suwon is the historic capital of the Gyonggi-do Province, and contains two of the country's major tourist’s draws.

The Korean Folk Village welcomes thousands of visitors each year. This thatched settlement perfectly recreates a typical Korean village from the mid-Joseon Dynasty period (mid-17th century). The authentic buildings include a traditional forge and communal public buildings. The working marketplace sells rural produce of the sort that would have been sold at the time. To get there, take the shuttle bus from Suwon railway station.

Open: daily 09h00-17h30 (until 18h30 in summers)

In Suwon itself you can't miss a visit to the spectacular Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO heritge site and one of the most perfect examples of an 18th-century fortress found anywhere in the world. The curtain walls are still amazingly sturdy and it is easy to see how this was once the cutting edge of fortress building. The design was amazingly modern, with embrasures for both arrows and guns. With over 40 buildings to explore in the complex you should set aside at least a couple of hours to do the fort justice.

Gyeongju: 

Regarded as the most historical city in Korea the entire city of Gyeongju is listed as a UNESCO heritage site, and rated among the top ten cities of historical importance anywhere in the world.

The city was the capital of the Kingdom of Silla as early as 57BC and, when the peninsula was united in the mid-7th century, Gyeongju was still functioning in that capacity. Nowadays the settlement contains many relics from its extensive history, including a great many Buddhist temples and shrines. You can also see the world's first known astronomical tower, the Cheomseongdae Observatory believed to have been built in the mid-600s.

The 6th-century Bulguska Temple is the city's major draw however, together with the massive seated statue of Sakyamuni in the Seokguram Grotto.

Panmunjom: 

Following the cessation of the 1950s Korean War the border between North and South has been a 4km-wide strip of land across the 38th line of latitude. Known as the DMZ (Demilitarised Zone), the area was described by former US President Clinton as "the scariest place on earth", but that doesn't stop many tourists from making the trip to the town of Panmunjom from where you can look into the Communist territory of North Korea.

From the viewpoints, visitors can look across the barbed wire barricades into North Korea where the flag of the Communist state is flown from the world's highest flagpole. The flag itself is also one of the largest in the world, and is said to be so heavy that when it rains the additional weight tears it in two. The village it stands in is a fake though, designed to demonstrate to onlookers the prosperity of North Korea.

Tour visitors can cross into North Korea in a room that straddles the border, under the watchful gaze of soldiers from both sides. Visitors may also be taken to see some of the tunnels dug from the North under the border, most probably for invasion purposes should the need arise.

Ironically the years of non-ownership have effectively turned the DMZ into a wild nature park and it is a settling ground for several rare birds and mammals, although unsupervised nature rambles are not allowed - you could spark an international incident if you were to try. Ask at your hotel for details of tours to the DMZ, although ensure that your tour is one with permission to visit Panmunjom itself rather than one that simply takes you close to the border. Panmunjom is 30km north of Seoul.

Gongju:

Once the capital of the ancient and powerful Baekje Kingdom, Gongju no longer looks anything like the powerful city it once was. This small town though still contains many relics of what was one of the most advanced and sophisticated cultures of Korea's early history.

The Gongju National Museum is undoubtedly the highlight of a visit here, containing many examples of distinctive Baekje artefacts, including the relics recovered from the tomb of King Muryeong. The tomb itself lies just outside the city and the site can be easily visited via a short bus ride out of Gongju centre. Although the relics have long since been removed to the museum it is still an atmospheric spot, dedicated to one of Korea's most venerated ancient rulers.

Nearby is Gongsan Castle, a formidable defensive structure renovated in the 17th century, and the Stone Age exhibition house of Sukjang-Ri, where the oldest manmade artefacts on the Korean Peninsula were discovered.

Jeju-do: 

This rural idyll is Korea's largest island and has been preserved as a living heritage museum and floral landscape. Considered a place apart from the rest of Korea Jeju-do has its own history, culture and dialect.

Its quaintness makes it a favourite with tourists. The setting is superb: lying just off the South Coast this was once a place of exile for political refugees. The coastline is replete with broad sandy beaches and the island is renowned for its warm sunny weather, although the wind does rip across the island from time to time. Today it is a playground for tourists and notably honeymooners who come to the island's resorts for the peace and quiet.

While on the island you can also visit the Seongeup Folk village and head for the coast where you can see the island's famous haenyeo divers - all female and the traditional breadwinners in Jeju society. The highest point on the island, Mt Hallasam is an inactive volcano, its slopes now protected as a wild garden of unusual flora. The views from the top, where the crater is now a small lake, are the most breathtaking on the island.

Kayasan National Park and Haeinsa Temple:

Just to the west of Taegu city in the mid-Southeast of Korea is the Kayasan National Park, one of the most renowned temples in the country. Haeinsa Temple was built in the 9th century and is a fabulous example of the building style of the period, and subsequent centuries as the temple has been damaged and restored several times in the last 1,200 years.

The temple complex comprises many buildings but the most famous among them are the four storage houses that form a quadrangle behind the central shrine. The oldest buildings in Haeinsa, these warehouses contain the temple's most famous and revered artefacts, the 80,000 wooden printing blocks engraved with Buddhist scriptures. Dating from the 13th century, the collection is known as the Tripitaka Koreana and is the most complete collection of Buddhist texts found anywhere in the world. The blocks are in a fabulous state of preservation, testament to the ingenuity of the buildings they are housed within, specially designed to prevent humidity.

Above the site is the bulk of Mount Gayasan, a rocky outcrop that afforded protection to the temple over the centuries and now provides a spectacular backdrop to the site.

Busan:

Right in the Southeast corner of the nation, Busan is South Korea's largest port and one of the country's most influential cities.

Dotted along the surrounding coastline are Korea's favourite beach holiday destinations, most notably the resorts of Hawundae and Gwang-alli, both with good beaches and a good choice of entertainment. The Beomeosa Temple north of the city is regarded as one of the finest Buddhist temples in the whole of Korea, while in Busan itself you can gain unobstructed views of the city and the nearby coastline from the 120m-high observation tower in the splendid Mount Yongdusan Park. The city is also home to the UN Memorial Cemetery, a thought-provoking burial ground for the 2,300 soldiers from foreign nations who died in the Korean War.

While in Busan you should take the time to taste some of the excellent seafood available in the city's restaurants. Raw fish, sushi-style is delicious, and the local speciality, pajeon, or seafood pancake, has to be sampled. At Jagalchi Fish Market you can see the fish being bought and sold in a constant hubbub of vibrant activity.

Shopping:

Tourist shopping in Korea is big business. Even with prices rising as tourist numbers grow, the country is still one of the cheapest holiday destinations on earth for a variety of goods. Seoul is an international shopping destination that can boast a whole host of products.

In truth, though you will very rarely get a bad deal. Korean products might not be considered the most fashionable or best quality in the world but with low prices, you get excellent value for money.

What you buy depends largely on where you are. While tourists in Seoul will be treated to the city's range of international goods.

Handicrafts and best value items throughout the country include hand worked leather and bamboo, both materials that are in great abundance throughout Korea. Quality of manufacture is high, and leather accessories, bags, belts and gloves, are the ones to look out for. Ornaments and more practical items made from woven or hollowed bamboo are popular for their Asian rusticity, interestingly not so much among native Koreans.

In Seoul and other big cities, fashion shoppers will find plenty to mull over. You will find better value away from the department stores however where international goods can be bought at international prices. Tailors can make you a bespoke suit in a few days for no more cash then you'd spend for an off the peg number in the department store next door. You should also look out for fashion label copies and rip-offs; although the price and minor differences might give the game away to you there's no reason to point it out to people when you're wearing it back home.

Foodstuffs are very popular. Bottled or jarred Kimchi is a great souvenir and an easily transportable way of bringing the flavours of the East back home. Ginseng is almost as popular; this traditional medicine has been familiar to Koreans for centuries and is becoming almost as widespread abroad. Fresh ginseng can be purchased from markets in all major cities, including at the Gyeongdong Herbal Medicinal Market in Seoul.

Cheap electronics are always a popular purchase for foreign tourists although quality can't always be guaranteed and warranties may not apply once you are back home. Markets are again the cheapest place to buy products. Cheap watches and jewellery are widely available, many of those on sale in markets being designed to mimic the famous brands that you can buy in stores just round the corner.

Best Shopping Areas:

Insadong, the network of streets just west of Jongmyo Shrine, is the best place to look for traditional Korean items and is a pleasant area for browsing, with streets lined with numerous antiques shops and small, private art galleries. Try the well-established Tongin shop for traditional handicrafts at 16, Gwanhun-dong.

Many visitors to Seoul flock to Itaewon just south of the city centre for all their shopping. The area's proximity to the American army base at Yongsan has meant that it has developed into very much a tourist-shopping zone, with English and Japanese signs up everywhere and most of the shop assistants speaking foreign languages. This certainly makes it convenient and easy and there are bargains to be had here, especially on clothes and leather ware. Quality and designs vary, though, so you may find you need to look around a bit to get the best stuff. Shops selling Korean lacquerware, porcelain and other items of giftware abound, so it's a good place to come to if you want to find a bit of everything in one area.

Shopping Centres:

If you're still searching for bargain souvenirs the Hamilton Shopping Centre next to the station has some small boutiques selling Korean pottery, leather bags and watches.

For large department stores and more upmarket fashion, the best place to head is Myeong-dong, the area between Myeong-dong and Euljiro subway stations. Most of the city's major stores are in this area and, though more expensive than Itaewon, quality is higher.

The best of the outlets here is Lotte department store, the main branch of which is on Sogong-dong next to Euljiro station. Hidden underneath Sogong-dong is an underground arcade with lots of little shops. It's a good place to buy Ginseng - try Korean Ginseng Buyeo, which sells all sorts of different ginseng in various forms.

Like its East Asian neighbours, Korea is famous for electronics, often cheaply produced and available at knock-down prices. If you are after electrical goods, you can usually pick up some bargains at Yongsan Electronics Arcade near Sinyongsan station, which contains hundreds of shops selling TVs, cameras and videos recorders. Make sure that whatever you buy is compatible with your systems back home before you hand over your cash however.

Markets:

Namdaemun Market has literally thousands of permanent open-air stalls selling everything from food to jewellery and clothing to handicrafts. The real trading takes place at night, when the wholesalers flock here to sell their wares at bargain prices. For visitors who keep more sociable hours, the market is open during the day between 07h00 and 17h00. Near Hoehyeon station in the south of the city ("Namdaemun" translates as "South Gate").

Dongdaemun is the biggest market in Seoul and very much like Namdaemun in its variety of stalls. It is open for ordinary business practically all day and all night, making it popular for late night shopping and an entertaining place to spend an evening.

Opening Hours:  

Major department stores are open from 10h30-19h30 including Sundays, but smaller shops tend to be open from early morning until late evening.

Tax Refund:

Tourists can apply for a tax refund on goods bought when leaving South Korea as long as they are bought from stores participating in the Tax-Free Shopping scheme. Currently the standard VAT rate is 10%.
Look out for the "Tax-Free Shopping" sign outside shops which can provide a refund voucher for purchases of over KRW30,000.

To reclaim tax, goods must be taken out of Korea within three months of the purchase date and the refund voucher needs to be presented to customs at the airport. Once they have stamped the voucher, you can obtain a refund from the Refund Service Operator at the airport or by post.